The Beautiful Game

In October 2010, Busan I’Park made it to the finals of the Korean FA Cup.  I’d never been to a football match before, so I decided this would be a fitting time to begin.  For starters, even though this was a cup final, tickets were still less than £7!  As I struggle to maintain a passing interest for ninety minutes when watching a game on TV, I was a little worried about making it through the match.  So I took my camera along and tried to capture the unique Korean “sports spectator” experience.

Walking down “Wembley Way”, as the ex-pats have nicknamed the approach to Sajik Stadium, the ground looked majestic against the beautiful and eponymous mountains of Busan, shrouded in clouds.  Unlike the pie and mash which I’m sure are a feature of football grounds in England, there was a stand of fried chicken and Hite beer.  There was also a distinct lack of buoyant, marauding fans chanting songs about Busan I’Park.  In fact, there was barely anyone.  The crowds of that day would look so insignificant in the world-cup class stadium, that a smaller, mini-stadium of seats had been erected around the pitch to create some semblance of atmosphere.

Things started out optimistically for Busan.  Confetti was thrown at the opening whistle.  Beer was drunk, flags waved, and the two young men behind the home-goal did their best to chivy the fans into joining the cheers and chants.  Even a little rain couldn’t damper the mood as, with what always seems like magic to me, reams of plastic macs appeared from nowhere and were distributed and donned, instantly creating an army of pointy-headed, rustling vinyl warriors.

It wasn’t to be however.  I’Park conceded an early goal from which they never recovered.  Morale slowly decreased amongst the home fans, whose cries became as lacklustre and desperate as the I’Park players’ performance on the pitch.  And then it was over.  Busan had lost.  Grown men cried into their red and white scarves, only to toss them on the floor with their discarded beer cans and plastic ponchos.